Spantik Peak (7027m)
per person
Spantik Peak (7027m) is known by various names for its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of the golden pillar is called “Ghenish Chhish”, which in Brushaski (local language) means Golden Mountain.
Ganesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 AD via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur.
Most recently Spantik Peak (7027m) has been a favorite for climbers to train themselves for higher elevation. Lying to the south of the great Hispar Glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers a charming climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some hard and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultras, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond, and many more. The scene is absolutely breathtaking.
Although technically easy Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an exorbitant physical condition, as well as regular practice, are needed to be on this expedition.
For more information on the Spantik Peak (7027m) and the Expeditions that we run there, contact us via:
WhatsApp: +92 347 4598096 | +92 345 4354348
Email: info@rockvalleytours.com
30 Days
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Destination
From Our Gallery
1
Day 01
Islamabad
Arrive Islamabad. Transfer to hotel for overnight stay.
2
Day 02
Islamabad
Welcome reception (briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Overnight at hotel.
3
Day 03
Skardu / Chilas
Fly to Skardu at 09:30 hrs.
Upon arrival transfer to hotel for overnight.
Sightseeing around Skardu.
The 55 minutes flight to Skardu is a very thrilling and unique experience of flying between the towering icy peaks of the mighty Himalayan and rugged Karakorum ranges with extra-ordinary and unforgettable aerial views of clusters of mountains, and Glaciers.
While flying don't miss to see the most spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8124m) and K2 (8611m) from the cockpit. These two mountains tower over all the others.
In case of cancellation of flight (12 – 14 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakorum Highway.
Overnight at hotel.
4
Day 04
Chilas / Skardu
Day free at Skardu.
If you are driving, complete road journey (07 – 08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km).
Enroute stop on a viewpoint near Thalichi to take a view of Nanga Parbat.
From this face it was climbed on 3rd July 1953 by Austrian climber Hermann Bhul.
It is a nice spot to take picture in combination with Indus and the Nanga Parbat in the background.
We cross the Alam Bridge over Gilgit River to continue our journey towards Skardu and drive on Skardu Road along the Right Bank of the Indus River.
En-route we will have the close views of Nanga Parbat, confluence of the Indus and Gilgit Rivers, junctions of the three mightiest ranges of Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindu Kush as well as the rapids and falls of Indus River.
The town of Skardu (2234m) is situated along the south side of the Indus River.
It is a broad valley about 40km long and 10km wide.
Skardu is now the administrative center of the District and also transportation and commercial center of Baltistan region.
5
Day 05
Skardu to Arandu
It is a long day journey so start early.
The road to Shigar Valley bridges the Indus from Thorego some (10km) east of Skardu.
The road then runs through the sand dunes before climbing over a shoulder of mountain from where a majestic view of the entire Shigar Valley can be seen upto the junction of Braldu and Basha Rivers.
The road then descends to the Shigar village (32km).
From Shigar the jeep trek goes up the West Bank of the river.
Enroute at Chu Tron we can see hot sulpher springs with separate bathing huts for men and women.
The jeep track goes up the valley to the beautiful village of Doko (20km) from where we trek to Arandu the last village at the snout of the wonderful (38km) Chogo Lungma Glacier.
The trail starts through walnut groves and then goes up and down the hillside with beautiful view of cultivated fields and villages on the other side of the river.
It is an easy walk upto Sesko beyond which it becomes stony and slippery due to landslides.
After Bulcho the valley opens up and after trekking about (5hrs) from Doko we reach Arandu.
Overnight at camp above the village at about 2950 meters.
6
Day 06
From Arandu to Bukhum
It takes about (8 hrs) to reach Bukhum, which is a summer settlement.
The trail follows the Basha River upto the snout of the Chogo Lungma Glacier.
After crossing the glacier follow the northern lateral moraine to Bukhum.
Overnight at camp.
7
Day 07
Bukhum to Khurumal
It is (5 – 8 hrs) trekking.
Watching the miracle views of the pyramid of Spantik, passing through Manchikera, which is a summer settlement we reach another summer settlement of Khurumal.
Overnight at camp.
8
Day 08
Khurumal to Bolucho
It is relatively short stage, which takes (4 –5 hrs).
Passing through the summer settlement of Gharincho and a small lake and enjoying the excellent views of Spantik and Laila Peaks we reach Bolucho, which is situated at the base of the Bolucho Glacier.
Overnight at camp at about (3,900 meters) on a green ground with water.
9
Day 09 – 23
Bolucho to Base Camp
(For acclimatization and climbing 15 days).
We will establish three high altitude camps to climb Spantik.
Going and returning between these camps will help acclimatize the team, which is key to success.
Certain parts of the route between different camps will be equipped with fixed cords for safety and going and coming without any hassles.
We will climb about (8km) up to the origin of Chogo Lungma Glacier to set up camp I at 4550 meters.
Camp 2 and camp 3 are installed at mini summits of southeastern ridge with a view of 360º.
The route from Camp I upto (5100m) altitude consists of many ice pitches with many crevasses requiring 8 ropes fix line.
Beyond this point upto camp 2 no rope is required.
The climbing from camp 2 at (5500m) to Camp 3 at (6550m) comprises ice with some dangerous steep crevasses requiring 6 ropes to fix on this section.
From Camp 3 to summit two ropes will be enough as safety rope.
10
Day 24
Return to Bolucho
Overnight at camp.
11
Day 25
Return to Chogo Brangsa
Overnight at camp.
12
Day 26
Return to Arandu
Overnight at camp.
13
Day 27
Return to Skardu
Drive by jeep to Skardu.
Overnight at hotel.
14
Day 28
Islamabad / Chilas
Fly to Islamabad at 1120 hrs (subject to weather conditions).
Overnight at hotel.
In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas.
Overnight at hotel.
15
Day 29
Islamabad
Leisure day at ISB.
Overnight at hotel.
In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad.
Overnight at hotel.
16
Day 30
Islamabad
Morning farewell meeting (de–briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
In the evening transfer to airport for your home bound flight.
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SERVICES INCLUDED & EXCLUDED
SERVICES INCLUDED:
Accommodation: on a twin-sharing basis in the hotels in towns. HP's hotel accommodation in towns, Camping Equipment: We Provide high-quality equipment to clients making their adventure the most. Comfortable and enjoyable even on the harsh and hard part of the world Dome 3 tents during trekking and at the base camp, Toilet Tent Kitchen Equipment: Mess Tent with full Kitchen Equipment, Table & chairs, Kitchen utensil Meals: Full board Darning camping and base camp, We provide the Excellent quality food during your adventure when you start your Trek from Shimshal to BC and back to Hunza, (fallboard). In Pakistan, RVT is the only expedition outfitter which provides fresh meat and vegetable at the base camps from time to time. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Tea or coffee, Food for HPs during traveling and trekking RVT Staff: We would not say our staff is the best one in Pakistan, you would say this after you Experience their punctuality, Experience, good and humorous attitude with you. Their daily allowance, Food, kit & equipment, insurance, accommodation, RVT Traveling Exp, like Islamabad to Shimshal and Back to ISB, TRANSPORTATION: 4x4 Jeeps etc. with all expedition Luggage. Road head to Trek Head & back. TPT for HPs from their home to back, HP & Porterage: Low Porters from Road to Base Camp, and HPs for High Passes, and back to trek head, including food. Kitchen. And 12.50 Kg of member luggage. Climbing Equipment. Fixing rope, ice screw, snow bars. Invitation letter for apply visa Are you a Frequent Visitor in Pakistan? If you are coming to Pakistan for Expeditions, Trekking and you wish to keep your equipment in Pakistan, You are more Then welcome to keep your equipment In our store either in Islamabad or you can keep them in Hunza. Like many other climbers, expedition, and trekking organizers you can keep them. This is a free service that only RVT offers to facilitate its clients. OFFICIAL FORMALITIES: Submission of application for climbing permit and coordination with the ministry of Tourism in order to update climbers with the progress. Arrangements of the first meeting with Guide and Ministry Briefing/de-briefing in the Ministry of tourism. Processing application for satellite permit (if required) Documentation for import and export of mountaineering cargo***COST DOES NOT INCLUDE
Following Mentioned services are not included in our price, but some of them can be arranged at your request Any Meals at the hotel or on the way are not included in the cost. Cost of any soft drinks, Any domestic/international airfare, transportation in an airport for pick and drop. Airfare from ISB-GLT-ISB US$ Depend on Government policies change Personal trekking equipment like the sleeping bag sacks Shoes and all personal expenses such as mineral water, telephone, liquor, etc Porter for to go high camp , any additional expanse Porter for personal Extra luggage on the trek, Trekking permit fee US$ 50 per person. Horse for the trek. Medicines and any expense of personal nature, Rescue Helicopter charges 12,000 U$ in case of use for rescue, any helicopter rescue is not included in the price for staff. Cook helper, porters & Sardar. Transfers to the airports for participants, Optional excursions, or deviations from the scheduled tour Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature Any expense due to forced majors, cancellation of flights, landslides, evacuation or accident, or delay beyond the control of the land operator Covid-19 PCR test and vaccination certificate Luggage and Cargo: Before your arrival and departure, RVT takes care of your luggage. Clearance of Cargo before arrival, Clearance of your Cargo after your departure to your home. Storage of your unwanted belongings in Islamabad or Skardu, which you do not need during your adventure, Miscellaneous: Mail delivery at the base camp Reconfirmation of international flight tickets The arrangement of high-altitude porters (if required). Rock Valley Tours has the best high-altitude porters in Pakistan. The arrangement of high-altitude tents (VE 25 North Face Tents) on payment. A farewell dinner will be hosted from RVT in one of the best restaurants or hotels in Rawalpindi/Islamabad with your staff who will be coming back with you from the base camp or your adventure. Taxes Fees & Tipping: The following fees and taxes are included in our quotation, for members, RVT crew and Camping fees, Bridge crossing Fees (Porter, porter Sardar, and RVT staff Tip is not included in the cost) Note: If any member splits from the expedition for his/her own reason, that member will bear all transportation costs on the way back to Rawalpindi. In case of damage to the base camp tent or any Equipment, the trek member will be charged the original value of the Equipment. Payment Procedure: * 50 % Advance on date block & confirmation of services, minimum 02 months before the commencement of trek nonrefundable. * 50 % balance payable before one month of trek Start (IMPORTANT) Foreigner clients must share their passport copy, 02 passport size Photograph full detail for trek permission requirement. If any member leaves the trek at any stage, the organization will not be liable to refund the payment. Using drugs or intoxication of any kind is strictly prohibited. If anyone is caught using any kind of substance on buses or during the trip will be expelled from the trip on the spot. That person will not be eligible for any kind of refund. We reserve the right to cancel the trip without prior notice for any reasons deemed appropriate by them. In such a case the registered participants will receive a full refund. On an adventure trip of this type, weather, local politics, transport or a multitude of other factors beyond the control of organizers can result in a change of itinerary. It is, however, very unlikely that the itinerary would be substantially altered; if alterations are necessary the Leader of the group and Guide will decide what the best alternative is, taking into consideration the best interests of the whole group Smoking in transport is strictly prohibited. Participants must hold a valid Computerized CNIC/Passport Card. Time management/punctuality is strictly recommended. Participants are advised to use Non-Slippery Shoes/Boot/Joggers/DMS. Participants must NOT wear Heel/Dress Shoes. On steep ascends in mountainous areas, air-conditioned buses will be operational on an on-off basis to keep the vehicles from overheating. The RVT will not be responsible for any injury/damage/loss.GEAR AND CLOTHING LIST for Trekking
Personal gear & Clothing.
While on an organized trek, it is best to pack all items for your trip in one large piece and one carry-on. The large piece must be a duffel bag (weighing not more than 12.5 Kg.) because duffels are easier for porters to carry. A small day pack is suggested as a carry-on to keep items that you will use while on the trek, bus, or jeep.Luggage
Large duffel bag with a lock. It is not recommended to put your stuff in a backpack as the straps might get damaged while being transferred from bus to jeeps, jeeps to campsites, and during loading and unloading by porters each day. A small padlock that fits through the zipper of your duffel bag is recommended.Day Pack:
Large enough for camera gear, cap, sunglasses, water bottle, jacket, and other items you may like to use while on the trek.Extra carry-on:
For storing city clothes in Skardu, Hunza, Chitral,Money Belt:
A small fanny pack, money belt, or around-the-neck passport bag is suggested for keeping safe your passport, travel documents, and money.Packing list for your Duffel:
Sleeping Bag:
As we shall be sleeping for four nights at Concordia at 4,700meters or at Snow Lake and Hispar Pass, Shimshal Pass, at 5151meters above sea level, so the bag should be rated for 0 degrees F or -18 degrees C. Ratings are all relative since the amount of insulation needed for a particular person to stay comfortable depends on their rate metabolism. A down bag will be warmer for its weight and pack smaller but does not retain its insulative properties when wet. A waterproof breathable shell or a bivy bag will keep the bag dry. A synthetic bag keeps you warm even when wet and is a less expensive alternative, but will weigh more for a given amount of warmth.Trekking Boots:
The single most important item on this list. Never take brand new boots on a trek, make sure they are well broken-in before departure. Good trekking boots are hard to get in Pakistan. If you are buying a new pair from abroad, look for medium-weight boots of fabric or a fabric/leather combination. They should provide adequate ankle support. A Vibrum or other deep-lug will protect you from rocks and add support. Always use thick socks when trying shoes so that you get the correct size. Short shoes can jam your toes painfully during steep descents. You could also try to get new “Grouted” shoes that provide protection against water and are good while walking in rain or through the snow. Make sure you can fit crampons on your shoes, as it is vital for crossing different passes.Camp Shoes:
Jogging shoes or sneakers to slip in at the end of the day. Tiva sandals are ideal for this trek, as you can use them while crossing streams and also at the campsite for strolls.Crampons:
You may need crampons on certain treks, sometimes only for one day. It helps in having a better grip on hard snow to have crampons fitted to your boots. Look for easy to fix ones. ( Check with us for your specific trek if you need the crampons or not). From our regular trek list, you would need to bring crampons for Gondogoro La, Biafo Hispar, and Wartum PeakThermal socks:
The socks you wear are a critical element. A cotton/wool combination is useful while on the glacier, and for warmer conditions, cotton socks are best. For those who are sensitive to wool synthetic/cotton socks are recommended.Liner Socks:
A thin, wickable material. Polypropylene, Capilene, Thermax, and Drylete all work very well. Silk does not work nearly as effectively as any one of the above. Polyester Fleece/Pile Jacket or Pullover. Stays warm even when wet. Polyester Fleece Pants. Good for afternoon strolls, same as above.Rain Gear:
A rain suit available from the local market is best for rain, doubles as a windbreaker, and fits over pile jacket and pants. Wicking Long Underwear (tops & bottoms). Wick moisture to keep you warm and comfortable and dry quickly. Two suits are a good idea.Ski Hat:
Covers your ears properly, use one with a cotton liner. The woolen cap is also good.Mittens or Gloves:
Woolen gloves are useful when at higher elevations and during windy conditions when the temperature drops quickly.Brimmed Sun Hat:
Very important for this trek, as when we start the trek and till we arrive at Concordia, we are generally walking towards east. This can be annoying in the morning as the sun is low and hits your eyes.Bathing Suit:
Men can take baths by the rivers or occasional lakes in ablation valleys.Toiletries:
Keep everything you normally use. Just remember to bring effective sunscreen, chapstick /lip balm, skin lotion, and laundry soap.CLOTHING
With your knowledge of Pakistani culture, you are well aware of precautions to be taken while traveling through remote areas. Cloths for the trek should be durable, comfortable, and easy to wash and dry. In good weather, you will spend much of your time in a T-shirt or medium shirt and outdoor trousers. You will need warmer clothes for the evening in the camps. Temperature falls rapidly as soon as the sun goes down. Men could wear shorts once they are through populated areas, which means from the third day of the trek. Women are advised to use cotton shalwar kameez (loose long shirts and baggy trousers) the traditional Pakistani dress, as these are comfortable during warm conditions, and also appreciated & respected by the locals.- Check List
- Headgear
- Parka
- Wool shirt & trousers
- Sweater
- Cotton shirt & pants
- Gloves & Mittens
- Rain/wind suit
- Cotton & Wool undergarments
- Socks (Cotton & Wool/synthetic)
- Boots (Trek & Camp)
- Belt!
- Down Jacket
- Shalwar Kameez (Cotton)
- Spare laces for boots
- Miscellaneous Items
- Sunglasses
- Towel
- Washcloth
- Bandanna/Scarf, for covering your mouth while riding in a jeep.
- Water bottle, with a durable screw top.
- Sunscreen
- Headlamp with flashlight + extra batteries and bulb
- Insect repellent
- Swiss Army knife, or a similar one
- Nylon cord for a clothesline
- Personal Medical Kit
- Pocket size sewing kit
- Lighter or matches for general use
- Wrist Watch
- Optional Items
- We provide closed-cell matrices but you may want to supplement for additional comfort.
- Stuff sacks of various sizes for storing your used clothes.
- Toilet paper or travel pack of tissues.
- An interesting
- Notebook and pen for a journal.
- Snacks: personal choice of dried fruit, candy, energy bars.
- Camera, film, extra batteries, cleaning supplies, and extra lenses.
- Sports gear (playing cards/Frisbee)
- Water purification tablets