Spantik Peak (7027m), also known as the Golden Mountain, is one of the most popular and accessible 7000-meter peaks in Pakistan. Located in the heart of the Karakoram Range, Spantik is famous for its striking northwest face called the Golden Pillar, which glows red and gold at sunrise and sunset.

In the local Brushaski language, it is called “Ghenish Chhish”, meaning Golden Mountain. Due to its majestic beauty, locals also refer to it as the Queen Mountain. British explorer Martin Conway named it the Golden Parri (Golden Fairy), while many climbers call it Pyramid Mountain because of its elegant shape.

📍 Location of Spantik Peak

Spantik lies within the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Massif, near the Barpu Glacier and Garumbar Glacier in Nagar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan.

It stands south of the massive Hispar Glacier and above the scenic Chogolungma Glacier, offering breathtaking trekking routes and alpine campsites surrounded by towering Karakoram peaks.

🧗 Climbing History

• 1903: First attempt via Southeast Ridge by Dr. & Mrs. Workman (reached 330m below summit).

• 1955: First successful ascent by a German expedition led by Kramer.

• 1987: British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the challenging Northwest Golden Pillar.

Today, Spantik is considered one of the best training peaks for climbers preparing for 8000m expeditions in Pakistan.

🏕️ Climbing Routes

✅ Southeast Ridge (Normal Route)

• 2700m elevation gain over 8 km

• Gradient between 30°–45°

• Multiple safe campsite options

• Snow and glacier climbing

• Technically moderate and achievable among the Karakoram 7000m peaks

This route is a steady ascent with a mix of hard snow and easier sections, making it ideal for experienced climbers aiming for their first 7000m summit.

⚡ Southwest Spur

• Snow ridge with moderate angles

• Suitable for skilled alpine climbers

🌄 Summit Views

From the summit (7027m), climbers enjoy panoramic views of:

• Rakaposhi

• Diran

• Malubiting

• Ultar Sar

• Batura Muztagh

• Haramosh Peak

• Even distant K2

The summit panorama is considered one of the most spectacular in the Karakoram.

🎯 Who Should Join Spantik Expedition?

Spantik Peak is ideal for:

✔️ Climbers with AD-level alpine experience
✔️ Mountaineers experienced in snow & glacier travel
✔️ Those preparing for 8000m expeditions
✔️ Physically fit adventurers with high-altitude exposure

Although technically moderate, Spantik requires excellent endurance, snow climbing skills, and proper acclimatization.

⭐ Why Choose Spantik Peak Expedition?

• One of the most beautiful 7000m peaks in Pakistan

• Ideal first 7000m climb in the Karakoram

• Safe campsites and moderate gradients

• Stunning Golden Pillar route

• Perfect preparation for higher Himalayan & Karakoram expeditions

📅 Best Time to Climb

June to August (Summer climbing season in Pakistan)