Nanga Parbat Expedition (8126 m)

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Fairy Meadows
Min Age : 18
Max People : 20

Nanga Parbat Expedition (8126 m)

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Nanga Parbat, meaning “Nude Mountain” in Sanskrit, is named for its steep, bare slopes that rise dramatically above the surrounding valleys. Locally, it is also known as Diamir, meaning “Abode of Fairies.” According to legend, a fairy queen lives on the mountain in a palace of crystal ice — and early climbing disasters were often linked to her displeasure.

Nanga Parbat is the second-highest mountain in Pakistan and the ninth-highest in the world. Unlike K2 and the Gasherbrums, it is not part of the Karakoram Range; it stands at the western end of the Himalayas, separated from the Karakoram by the mighty Indus River. The mountain forms a massive 20 km-long ridge system, culminating at 8126m.

It is famous for its enormous vertical faces:

  • The Rupal Face rises nearly 5000m, one of the highest mountain walls on Earth.

  • The Raikot (North) Face drops over 7000m toward the Indus Valley.

  • This expedition approaches via the Diamir (West) Face, the most commonly climbed route.

Nanga Parbat has one of the most dramatic histories in mountaineering. After multiple tragic attempts in the 1930s, it earned the nickname “Killer Mountain.” The first successful ascent was made in 1953 by Hermann Buhl, who completed a legendary solo summit push without oxygen.

The Diamir Face route involves steep rock and ice sections, exposed snow slopes, high camps, and objective hazards including avalanches and sudden weather changes. Although it is considered the standard route, Nanga Parbat remains a serious and committing 8000m expedition, suitable only for experienced high-altitude climbers.

Climbing Nanga Parbat offers a powerful combination of history, challenge, and raw Himalayan beauty — a true test for ambitious mountaineers.

Itinerary

Day 01 Arrival in Islamabad

Arrival at Islamabad International Airport. Transfer to the hotel and rest.
Overnight: Hotel

Day 02Islamabad

Welcome reception at the Alpine Club of Pakistan and expedition briefing.
Islamabad, located at the foot of the Margalla Hills, is Pakistan’s modern capital city. Time permitting, optional sightseeing of Rawalpindi or the ancient ruins of Taxila.
Overnight: Hotel

Day 03Drive to Chilas (480 km)

Drive along the spectacular Karakoram Highway (KKH) to Chilas. The journey follows the mighty Indus River, passing through Abbottabad, Mansehra, Besham, and Dassu. Scenic mountain landscapes and ancient rock carvings can be seen along the way.
Overnight: Hotel

Day 04Trek to Diamoroi

Short drive to Bunar Das, then begin trekking along the Bunar River to Diamoroi Village (4–6 hours).
Overnight: Camp

Day 05Diamir Base Camp (4100m)

Trek from Diamoroi to Kutagali (3500m) through birch forests and rocky terrain, then continue to Diamir Base Camp (4100m).
This is the historic Diamir Face, where early expeditions attempted the climb. The famous Kinshofer Route and Messner Route are located on this side of the mountain.
Overnight: Camp

Day 06 - Day 40Acclimatization & Climbing Period

Extended stay for acclimatization, load ferry, and summit attempts.
Climbers establish high camps along the Diamir (Kinshofer) Route, navigating steep rock, ice sections, and snow slopes before the final summit push to 8126m.
Overnight: Camp

Day 41Return to Diamoroi

Descend from Base Camp and trek back to Diamoroi.
Overnight: Camp

Day 42Drive to Chilas / Gilgit

Trek to Bunar and drive onward to Chilas (or Gilgit, depending on logistics).
Overnight: Hotel

Day 43Return to Islamabad

Drive via the Karakoram Highway back to Islamabad (or flight option if available).
Overnight: Hotel

Day 44Debriefing & Farewell

Official debriefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Farewell gathering and free time for shopping or sightseeing.
Overnight: Hotel

Day 45Departure

Transfer to the airport for your return flight home.

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