Passu Peak (7478 m)

Passu Peak (7478 m): There are about 4/5 Passu Peaks in that range but two of them are above 7000 meters. Passu 1 is 7478m & Passu II is 7285m. The difference in heights is less than 200m so there is no difference in climbing timings and high camps.

Once out of Islamabad we will drive straight 12 hours on the Karakoram Highway to Chilas. From Chilas we’ll drive to Upper Hunza Valley and stay in Gulmit. Gulmit is an hour’s drive from Karimabad. At Gulmit we will leave our van and board on 4×4 jeeps to move towards our base camp. Our jeeps will drop us a Borit Lake, which is half an hour’s drive from Gulmit. Borit Lake will be our trek head. Here we will take our packs and start walking towards the first camping site Passu Ghar. The first days’ trek is easy with marvelous views of Passu Glacier. After 4 hours walk, we will be at Passu Ghar. It is a sandy, green place at Southern lateral moraine of Passu Glacier. It is basically a summer pasture so we might find sheep, goats & yaks here.

From Passu Ghar we will walk upon the moraine and cross Passu Glacier to reach Lazdur. The glacier crossing is easy as it is a regular route for the local shepherds. At Lazdur we will stop for lunch which will be a good opportunity before the steep ascends to reach Patundas. In total it is 5/6 hours walk/climb from Passu Ghar to Patundas. Patundas is a high place at 4200 meters. It is also a very good panoramic viewpoint for all the peaks in Hunza, Upper Hunza & Shimshal Valley.
Next morning we will descend down for ¾ hours to reach our base camp (3900m). There is also a seasonal mountain lake. This is an ideal green place for the base camp before the big white snowfield of the Passu Peak (7478 m). This place is also one of the base camps of Shispar 7611m.

After spending appropriate time here for acclimatization we will start establishing advance base camp on the snow. The first half an hour walk from the base camp is again on the moraine. After that, we will be on the glacier. On the glacier, it depends on the latest snow conditions that we will find ice or snow. If there is fresh snowfall then we have to walk on soft snow otherwise on the permanently settled glacier. Now for the advance base camp, there is no fixed place. It depends on the speed and mutual understanding of the expedition members. Water will be available here and we don’t need to melt snow. Approx. the height here will be about 4000m.

Now the real climb starts. The route between advance base camp to camp 1 is quite difficult, technical and full of crevasses and seracs. We may need to use ladders on some portions here so please try to bring mountain ladders with the other climbing equipment. Also, we need to fix a rope on a few places to cross the crevasses and on some traverses. As it is not a regular mountain like Spantik or G2 so we have to make our route our selves in many places. Which makes these peaks a bit harder than the known seven thousanders. Overall the climb is not very difficult but negotiating with crevasses and deep soft snow are the major hurdles on the mountain. Once the route is fixed by the high altitude porters and climbing leader it will take 4/5 hours to members to reach camp 1 from advance base camp. The height here will be around 4900 meters.

Route from camp 1 to camp 2 is not technical. Again HA porters and climbing leader will make the route first in deep snow and dump all the required equipment at camp 2. After that, it will be max. 6/7 hours walk for the members. The first two hours walk is on a flat white snowfield after that there is an ascend of 4 hours. There is no need to fix any rope in between camp 1 and camp 2 except one point of 25/30 meters. Arrive at camp 2 at 5700m. It is a flat place on deep snow.

Camp three is a big white snowfield and it will take the party about 6/7 hours, once the route is broken by the leaders. Climb to Camp 3 is gradual with occasional possibilities of hidden crevasses. No need for rope fixing anywhere. Approx. height at camp 3 is 6600m.

From camp 3, it is 7/8 hours climb to reach the summit of Passu 2 (7285m). The route is safe and non-technical but in deep snow. For Passu 1 (7478m) we need to establish camp 4 on the way because it is not possible from camp 3 to reach the summit of Passu Peak (7478 m) and come back to camp 3 in one day. The route is the same as for Passu 2. Soft deep snow and no crevasses but there is a steep ascent of about 200+ meters before the summit of Passu 1 (7478m). Camp 4 will be at 6900 meters just at the start of the last ascend.

For more information on the Passu Peak (7478 m) and the Expeditions that we run there, contact us via:

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Email: info@rockvalleytours.com