Ultar Peak (7388m, the magnificent mountain) lies in the heart of Hunza valley and is in the Batura chain of peaks which starts from Chalt village (Bar valley) to Kampir Dior in Kurumbar valley.
This beautiful mountain is surrounded by Lady Finger, Marble Peak, Harchinder Peak, and Passu Peak. The surrounding glaciers are Attabad, Ultar, Hassan Abad, and Batura.
Ultar Peak has been a challenge for the climbers in the past and even today. It’s known for its hard, steady and rock falls, overhanging rocks and sharp ridges. It has been attempted by many expeditions in the past but all attempts went in vain, finally, it was conquered by a Japanese expedition in 1997.
Elevation: 7388 Mt
Mountain Range: Karakoram
First climbed in 1997, by Japanese expedition
Duration: 40 Days
Best Time: May - August
40 Days Expedition Itinerary:
Day 01: Islamabad
Meet and assist at airport by a local tour manager. Alpine Club of Pakistan will host a welcome reception at Alpine Club. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 02: Islamabad
We will go to the ministry of tourism where the tourism officials will brief the team. If the time allow we may go for a short city tour of Islamabad. Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 03: Islamabad - Chilas (472 km)
Early morning drive for Chilas . Overnight stay in hotel at Chilas.
Day 04: Chilas - Karimabad
After breakfast we will depart for Karimabad, en route lunch stop at Gilgit. Overnight stay in hotel at Karimabad (Hunza).
Day 05: Trekking towards the Base Camp (Tent)
Day 06–35: The days for preparation, scaling the summit (Tent)
Day 36: Trek down to Karimabad
Day 37: Karimabad - Gilgit
If flight is not confirmed (subject to weather) then drive through for Chilas otherwise overnight stay in hotel at Gilgit.
Day 38: Gilgit - Islamabad
We take morning flight for Islamabad, up on arrival transfer to hotel, afternoon we will go for city tour.
Overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 39: Islamabad
We assemble at Alpine Club of Pakistan for the farewell reception.
Day 40: Islamabad - Flight Out
Please Note: Skardu/ Gilgit - Islamabad - Skardu/ Gilgit flights are subject to weather and backlog, in case of flight cancellation we will travel by road, and one night of Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
Pakistan Mountaineering Rules & Regulations
Procedure for Applying Permission:
1.A foreign mountaineering expedition desirous of climbing of peak in Pakistan shall apply on the application form (Annexure-A) with one extra copy in the nearest Embassy/Consulate of Pakistan. A copy with a photo copy of royalty receipt should be sent directly to the Tourism Division, 10th Floor, Green Trust Tower Blue Area, and Islamabad, Pakistan.
2. Application forms for allotment of peaks should accepted by a Pakistani Embassy/Consulate during the period of 1st January to 31st December of a year preceding the year in which an expedition is planned.
3. Such application would then be sent by the said Embassy/.Consulate immediately to the Tourism Division where they would be processed on "First-come First served basis".
4. Incomplete application forms or such forms as are received either before or after the stipulated dates may not be entertained.
5. If a party is note sure of the composition of the team, it shall apply stating the fact and without attaching particulars of members with the application form. In such cases peaks will be provisionally booked. A formal permission letter shall issue only after particulars at Annexure-B are received in Tourism Division at least three months in advance of arrival of the part in Pakistan.
If particulars of the new members are not received within stipulated period and party arrives in Pakistan, it may delay their departure to the mountains till the clearance of new members is obtained in about a week. Under this procedure a party shall not leave Pakistan unless it is in receipt of the formal permission letter. No mountaineer would be a member if more than one expedition during a session.
6. A part shall indicate in order of performance, at least 3-4 peaks so that available peaks could be allotted. A part shall be given permission for more than 8000 meter peaks with the special permission by the Secretary, Ministry of Culture Sports and Tourism.
7. Tourism Division shall endeavor to send the mountaineering permit to a party within 60 days of receipt application from in Tourism Division. Depending on the availability of the peak for the choice period. Tourism Division will send provisionally booking of the peak upon receipt of the completed application.
8. Government reserves the right to allot a particular peak through any route to more than one party in the same session.
9. Government has the right to cancel the allotment of a peak at any time without assigning any reason. Amount of royalty deposited shall be refused in such cases.
10. In case, however, a party postpones/cancels its mountaineering plan for its own reasons, it shall so inform the Tourism Division by quickest possible means. In such case royalty deposited shall neither be refused nor it could be carried forward for future mountaineering season is possible subject to availability of the peaks/route for the revised date.
11. The expedition upon arrival in Rawalpindi/Islamabad should see the officer concerned in Tourism Division for arranging meeting with the Liaison Officer and assistance on matters like insurance, purchase of rations and allied matters. After completing these formalities leader of the expedition shall ask for a date of formal briefing. For this purpose he shall give a minimum notice of 24 hours excluding Friday and Holidays. The preparatory work would entail a stay of four-five days in Islamabad/Rawalpindi.
12. On return from the mountains the leader of party shall inform the concerned officer in the Tourism Division and obtain a date for debriefing by giving him a minimum notice of 24 hours excluding Friday and holidays.
Note: No party will leave for the mountains without formal briefing or leave the country without formal de-briefing.
13. A party shall include in the expedition as its member at least one L.O to be detailed by the Government of Pakistan.
14. A part shall pay for his food, accommodation and transport for mountains and back from the reporting date of the expedition in Islamabad till the date the party is de-briefed.
15. During the stay of a party at Rawalpindi/Islamabad the L.O will be given daily allowances at the rate of USD 30/- per day. The L.O in a city of Northern Areas (such as Skardu, Gilgit etc) is to be paid USD 15/- per day and accommodation.
16. A L.O shall carry his personal equipment like any other member of the party.
17. A L.O shall be consulted on routes and local customs and if desired on matters such as transport, accommodation and rations. If however, a leader disagrees with L.O he shall give him in writing the reasons for such disagreement.
18. A L.O shall extend maximum assistance to a party in making purchases etc. He shall, however, not handle any cash nor undertake any financial transactions on behalf of a leader/party.
Wages of Porters and Transport Hire Charges:
Royalty Mountain Fees
Height of Peaks
Reduced Fee for 2005 (USD)
Full Team of 7 Members
These rates are subject to periodic revision) Additional fee will be charged if the number of party is for more than one peak the additional number is to pay for the other peak also.
Expeditions are required to deposit full amount of royalty with the nearest Embassy/Consulate/Tourism Division Government of Pakistan at the time of making an application for booking of a peak. The head of account for depositing the royalty is:-
"1391-Fees, Fines and Forfeitures" for accounting of the receipt relating to royalty/trekking fee realized from Mountaineering and Trekking.
49. An Embassy/Consulate shall forward to the Tourism Division a copy of the royalty receipt issued to the Expedition, amount of royalty, number and receipt issued may clearly be mentioned on the covering letter.
50. A party shall indicate in its application from its order of preference for attempting the peak. In case the preference of a party is for the allotment of lower peak and the party is allotted a higher peak out of its preference it shall deposit the balance of the royalty within two weeks of receipt of communication from Tourism Division. In case the balance amount is not deposited within the stipulated period the allotment shall automatically stand cancelled. The amount of royalty collection shall not be refunded to the party whose allotment has been cancelled.
51. In case the first preference of a part is for the allotment of a higher peak but it is allotted a lower peak out of its preference the balance of the royalty shall be refunded to it by the concerned Embassy/Consulate of Pakistan on receipt of a letter of authorization from the Tourism Division.
52. It shall be binding on a party to accept the allotment of a peak if it is one of those mentioned by it in its application form. In case of refusal to accept the allotment, the amount of royalty stand forfeited.
53. If a party indicates its order of preference within a list of peaks submitted by it and all those peaks have already been allotted to other parties. It shall be asked to identify more peaks. In case of its inability to do so the whole of its royalty shall be refused to it.
54. A foreign-cum-Pakistani party and a Pakistani-cum foreign party shall deposit the full amount of royalty the balance of the amount shall be refunded to it accordingly.
A foreign expedition party shall be allowed to get Pakistani member only from Pakistani Mountaineering club registered with Tourism Division. Similarly such a Pakistani club shall be allowed to organize a Pakistani-cum-Foreign expedition if it is registered with the Tourism Division.
Joint Expeditions Parties:
Observance Of Security And Conditions:
For The Publication Of Material
84. A party shall confine its activities to its objectives as declared in the application form.
85. A party shall not indulge in any activity that might offend the religious sentiments and social or moral usages and customs of the local people.
86. A party shall not at any stage operate in more than one area and scale more than one peak.
87. Also a party shall not scale a peak by a route which goes through another peak.
88. A party shall not split into small groups while in the mountains. In case of emergency a L.O has the authority to allow splitting of a party.
89. A party shall not deviate from the specified route expected in an emergency and with the permission of a L.O.
90. Maps etc if applied for and issued to a party shall be returned to the Government of Pakistan through L.O before an expedition's departure from Pakistan. A nominal amount of non-refundable money may also need to be deposited with the Government for use of these maps.
91. Duplicate copies of photographical data collected during mountain climbing etc. shall be handed over to L.O.
92. Should a party be of mountaineering-cum-scientific or exclusively scientific nature, the leader shall submit to the Pakistan authorities concerned for inspection of all the data/specimens/collections etc.
93. Export of all such collection without the prior permission of the Government of Pakistan is prohibited.
94. A leader shall provide a set of all such specimens to the Government of Pakistan.
95. Copies of research papers/documents prepared shall also be supplied, in duplicate, to the Government of Pakistan.
Environmental Care Code:
Expeditions Visiting Pakistan
A. LIAISON OFFICER:
The Terms and Conditions for Liaison officer would remain the same as provided under item IV above except the following:-
KIT & EQUIPMENT: The kit and equipment would be of such a make and quality which can withstand the extreme temperature of –35 C to –40 C.
The Terms and Conditions for porters (both high and low altitude) would remain the same as provided under item VII above except the following:-
The scale of rations would be the same for both low & high altitude porters as indicated in Annexure-H of the mountaineering rules and regulations.
ii. Kit & Equipment:-
The items of kit and equipment would be the same for both low and high altitude porters as are mentioned in Annexure - E. The equipment shall be of the quality that is tested against a temperature of – 35 C to – 40 C.
a. Low altitude porters – doubt the normal summer wages + Rs. 50/- per day in lieu of rations.
b. High altitude porter – double the normal summer wages +Rs. 50/- per day in lieu of rations.
A Low altitude porter shall carry a maximum weight of 20 kgs up to base camp. A high altitude porter shall carry a maximum weight of 12 kg.