Named for the immense bulk of the peak, Broad Peak (local name Falchen Kangri) stands omnipotent. The climbing will not be especially steep but the remoteness of the setting will make this an especially rewarding experience. Whether this is your first 8000m peak or your third, the nature of climbing in this region will have its own unique flavor.
We establish our base camp and spend a day of rest, acclimatizing and sorting equipment. We will establish three camps on the mountain making our summit bid towards the end of July, this being the more stable weather period in the region.
The route involves climbing through a rocky gully to Camp I (6000m) then by following a large snow face we reach Camp-II at around 6500m. A final camp is placed at 7200m from where we make the summit bid.
Fixed ropes protect the steeper sections of the route, which are mostly lower on the climb.
We arrive in Islamabad and have a briefing with the Pakistani government’s Ministry of Tourism who issue the climbing permits. We then fly to a mountain village called Skardu or if the weather is inclement we travel by road through the Indus gorge. Skardu is the parting point from civilization, where we will be accommodated in a Hotel.
Jeeps take us to the road end at Askole, the last village in the valley. Askole is the beginning of the trek to base camp and each night we camp out as we travel up the valley with our Balti porters providing entertainment and color to the otherwise stark and barren countryside. Our expedition cooks provide wholesome and high-quality food along the trek and while at base camp. We will cook our own meals while on the mountain.
Our next camp is Paiju, the last campsite before the beginning of the Baltoro glacier then the route to Broad Peak follows the opposite (true left) side of the Baltoro, passing spectacular views of the Trango group, trekking for a further 6 days to reach the base camp.
Proposed Detail itinerary for BROAD PEAK (8047M)
DAY 1 _ Departure For Pakistan.
Day 2 _ Arrive Islamabad
Spend the day in Islamabad finalizing permit details with the Ministry of Tourism for briefing and other official formalities with ministry of tourism. Evening free.
Overnight at hotel.
Day 3 _ Travel To Skardu
In the morning you will be transferred to Islamabad airport for the flight to Skardu (2272m). This flight is subject to clear weather. Alternately, we take two-day drive to Skardu, along the Karakoram Highway, sometimes refereed to as the eighth wonder of the world. We stay overnight at Chilas on the banks of Indus, the lion river.
DAY 4 _ Explore Skardu
Free day at Skardu, the capital of Baltistan, sometimes called little Tibet due to its geographic location and historic links with Tibet and Laddakh. Stroll down the narrow bazaar, climb up the cliff to visit the historic Kharpocho fort, visit the turquoise blue Satpara Lake which is just a few kilometres from the town.
Meals and overnight at Motel/Resort.
Day 5 _ Towards Trek Head
We leave Skardu on metal road heading east, drive over a small pass and enter Shigar, a valley of orchards. Arrive at Thongol/ Askoli , and leave the jeeps for a short walk to camping site.
Meals and overnight at camp. 6-7 hrs jeep ride.
Day 6 _ Start The Trek
As the staff distribute 25kg each among the porters, we start our trek in the soft morning light . Walking along the Braldu river we arrive at Askole , the last permanent settlement along the trek, often mentioned by early explorers as the last human inhabitation of the Indian subcontinent. Another three hours’ walk across barren wasteland brings us to Biafo glacier, a tortured sea of ice and rocks two kilometers wide at this point. It takes around two hours to cross the glacier on a established trail, walking most of the time on morraine and occasionally on ice. Once across the glacier it is twenty minutes to Korofan (10,200`)
Meals and overnight at camp. 6-7 hrs.
Day 7 _ The wooden bridge
A tough day’s walk along a cliff face to arrive at the cable bridge to cross the Dumordo River. We may have to wait here for some time for our turn to cross the river over the newly built wooden bridge which replaced a swinging pulley. The last two hours are a comparatively easy walk beside the river. This section of the trek can be unexpectedly hot and dry, so protect yourself well from the sun. Our campsite Khrobrak (4242m) is a small stretch of land just by the Braldu river, which will provide natural music all the time.
Meals and overnight at camp 7-8hrs trek.
Day 8 _ G 4 Greets You Near Paiju
The trek starts in easy fashion with an occasional scramble over rock . Three hours’ walk brings us to the point where waters from the Paiju peak divide themselves into four rushing streams, that can be crossed by jumping over the stones and then walking through the meltwater. In the east dominating, the horizon are the towering summits of Gashabrum 4, Cathedral Towers and Broad Peak. After negotiating scree and sand, we walk along the river, arrive at Paiju (3560m), a refreshing campsite situated in a grove of willows and poplars through which flows a stream of fresh water.
Meals and overnight at camp 4-5 hrs trek.
Day 9 _ Urdukas On Baltoro
We begin our day’s trek with a walk for about an hour across gradually ascending barren territory to arrive at the snout of the Baltoro Glacier, a vast, turbulent sea of rocks and ice more than two miles wide and nearly forty miles long. The first stretch of the walk on the undulating glacier can be a little challenging as we dodge small crevasses. The view is magnificent with the Cathedral and Trango Towers, rising to 6000metre -plus on our left. We begin to feel the pulse of creation: the melting ice, the shifting rocks, and the groans of the glacier as it rearranges its icy rivers. As we walk across boulder-strewn ice, we gradually gain height over three hours to the south side of the glacier. We arrive at a flat, sandy area of lateral moraine, our campsite Khobursay/ Urdokas at 4200m.
Meals and overnight at camp 5-6hrs trek.
Day 10 _ Biango/ Goro 02:
We walk on the lateral moraine of the glacier for the first two hours. After arriving at the green pastures of Urdukas, we cross crevasses and then walk on the medial moraine of the glacier. The middle part of the glacier has its own surprises for us, small streams of water rushing over clear blue ice, and huge mushroom-like ice towers erupting from the glacier. As we proceed Gashabrum 2 (8035m), the 14th highest peak in the world) peeps from the right shoulder of G-4 in the east. Biango, at 4030m, is our campsite, dominated by a stunning view of Mashabrum (7900m) due south. As we are camping on a thin layer of moraine over glacial ice the night can be cold.
Meals and overnight at camp 7-8hrs trek.
Day 11 _ To Concordia:
Start your trek walking on the medial moraine of the glacier to the incredible sanctuary of Concordia. As we make our approach , Gashabrum - 4 stands guard in the east. On our left we have magnificent views of Muztagh Tower (7200m) on the border between Pakistan and China. Excitement mounts and paces quicken as we arrive at Concordia, lured by the classic views of K2 (8612m), The second highest mountain of the world. Concordia - the meeting place of five glaciers, is named after “Place de la Concorde” in Paris. Within a radius of 15km are 41 peaks above 6500 meters, almost half of them still virgin and unnamed. Also visible from Concordia, clockwise from K-2 are: Broad Peak (8068m), Gashabrum 4 (7900m), Baltoro Kangri (7245m), Kondus (7000m), Mitre (6000m), Paiju (6610m), Crystal (6300m), Marble (6200m) and Angel Peak (6800m). Meals and overnight at camp 5-6 hrs trek.
Day 13 K2 & Broad Base Camp:
Full-day Trek to the K2 base camp involving a strenuous 06- hour round-trip trek over snow, rock and ice. As we start our trek, we cross the crevasses of the Baltoro Glacier, then walk on the lateral moraine of the Godwin Austin glacier to the base camp of Broad Peak. Chogolisa (7660m) now appears on the scene, standing guard in the south and hinting at the new crossing from Concordia to the Hushe Valley. We move on to the medial moraine of the glacier, walking here is much more easier than first two hours’ stretch spent on rocks. When we arrive at K2 base camp at 5030m, which is normally occupied by five mountaineering overnight.
Meals and overnight at camp 5-6 hrs trek.
Day 13 - 50 _ K2 & Broad Peak:
37 Days for Climbing at the base camp with full board services climbing, Meals and overnight at camp
Day 51 _ To Ali Camp:
The: first two hours of the trek are difficult as we leave Concordia and traverse the Baltoro Glacier and its crevasses. Once on the Vigne Glacier it is a comparatively easy and gradual walk over snow and ice. Mighty Chogolisa (7600m) stands guard in the south. Camp overnight at Ali Camp (5030m), a combination of small rocky platforms between the cliff face and crevasse. We turn in early, as we have a midnight wake-up call for the departure over the Gondogoro La.
Meals and overnight at camp 5-6 hrs hiking.
Day 52 _ Over Gondogoro La Pass:
We leave camp at about 1am to climb the Gondogoro La (5566m). For the first two hours we walk on the lateral moraine to avoid crevasses. As we get closer to the pass, we walk on snow to the base of the pass. The final ascent involves a steep walk on the snow and the use of fixed ropes as well as crampons and ice axes. The view from the top of the pass are unparalleled, with K2, Broad Peak, Gashabrum 1 to 4, Mashabrum, and many mountains other appearing at our level. The descent on the Hushe side is steeper, requiring good balancing on the rocks. Camp at Khuispan (4629m), a level green spot that has wildflowers in July and August.
Meals and overnight at camp 9-10 hrs treks.
Day 53 _ Khuispan:
A rest day after the ascent of the pass. We can take time to explore the area or just relax and admire view of Laila Peak (6063m), Drangra (6230m, and Tasa Peak (6514m).
Meals and overnight at camp. 5-6 hrs trek.
Day 54 _ Dalsangpa:
As we leave Khuispan, we make a long traverse of the Gondogoro Glacier, first encountering small crevasses, then hiking over the soft ice of the glacier. The last half hour is a pleasant stroll through wild flowers, with commanding views of the Gondogoro Glacier, Yermandu Kangri (7555m), Mashabrum South (7688m), and the Mashabrum La. Camp at 4198m by a small Lake.
Meals and overnight at camp. 5-6 hrs trek.
Day 55 _ Saicho
As we continue, we gradually leave the icy landscapes and descend to the meadows and pasture land at Saicho (3727m). Although we’ve left the icy wilds, we still have tremendous views, including Namika Peak (6230m), and Defokhar (6445m).
Meals and overnight at camp. 5-6 hrs trek.
Day 56 _ Hushe
Descend to the Gondogoro River, enjoying spectacular views of K-6 (7171m, K-7 (6839m), and Link Sar (6935m). We continue descending, passing through small summer settlements en route to the green irrigated fields at Hushe (3153m).
Meals and overnight at camp. 5-6 hrs trek.
Day 57 _ Back To Civilization * Skardu
Enjoy your last breakfast at the camp for this trek, and say Khuda Hafiz to your camping staff who had been pitching tents for you and preparing meals for you during the trek. Board soft top 4x4 jeeps for a bumpy ride through Karakoram. This part of Baltistan appears greener and more prosperous than on our drive to Thongol. Arrive at Skardu. Transfer to motel - and enjoy the hot shower.
Meals and overnight at resort/motel. 5/6 hrs jeep ride.
Day 58 _ Towards Pindi * (Pindi/Chilas)
We book the flight to Islamabad, with good luck the flight might operate, enabling us to arrive Pindi in just one hour (miracle of science!). In case of cancellation of flight, we shall drive by road to Islamabad - spending
overnight at Chilas KKH. 7-8 hrs Drive
Day 59 _ Finally Back ! * Pindi
Once at Rawalpindi, we shall proceed to the office of Ministry of Tourism for de-briefing of our expedition with ministry of tourism. Day free to explore the twin cities of Rawalpindi and Islamabad. 5-6 hrs Drive.
Day 60 _ Fly Home:
Transfer to airport for international departure flight.
DETAILS OF SERVICES:
1. Accommodation: In good standard hotels on full board/half twin basis in cities. During camping in international quality dome tents on twin sharing basis, with full board services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE:
1. Royalty of the mountain & climbers insurance.
Pakistan Mountaineering Rules & Regulations
Procedure for Applying Permission:
1.A foreign mountaineering expedition desirous of climbing of peak in Pakistan shall apply on the application form (Annexure-A) with one extra copy in the nearest Embassy/Consulate of Pakistan. A copy with a photo copy of royalty receipt should be sent directly to the Tourism Division, 10th Floor, Green Trust Tower Blue Area, and Islamabad, Pakistan.
2. Application forms for allotment of peaks should accepted by a Pakistani Embassy/Consulate during the period of 1st January to 31st December of a year preceding the year in which an expedition is planned.
3. Such application would then be sent by the said Embassy/.Consulate immediately to the Tourism Division where they would be processed on "First-come First served basis".
4. Incomplete application forms or such forms as are received either before or after the stipulated dates may not be entertained.
5. If a party is note sure of the composition of the team, it shall apply stating the fact and without attaching particulars of members with the application form. In such cases peaks will be provisionally booked. A formal permission letter shall issue only after particulars at Annexure-B are received in Tourism Division at least three months in advance of arrival of the part in Pakistan.
If particulars of the new members are not received within stipulated period and party arrives in Pakistan, it may delay their departure to the mountains till the clearance of new members is obtained in about a week. Under this procedure a party shall not leave Pakistan unless it is in receipt of the formal permission letter. No mountaineer would be a member if more than one expedition during a session.
6. A part shall indicate in order of performance, at least 3-4 peaks so that available peaks could be allotted. A part shall be given permission for more than 8000 meter peaks with the special permission by the Secretary, Ministry of Culture Sports and Tourism.
7. Tourism Division shall endeavor to send the mountaineering permit to a party within 60 days of receipt application from in Tourism Division. Depending on the availability of the peak for the choice period. Tourism Division will send provisionally booking of the peak upon receipt of the completed application.
8. Government reserves the right to allot a particular peak through any route to more than one party in the same session.
9. Government has the right to cancel the allotment of a peak at any time without assigning any reason. Amount of royalty deposited shall be refused in such cases.
10. In case, however, a party postpones/cancels its mountaineering plan for its own reasons, it shall so inform the Tourism Division by quickest possible means. In such case royalty deposited shall neither be refused nor it could be carried forward for future mountaineering season is possible subject to availability of the peaks/route for the revised date.
11. The expedition upon arrival in Rawalpindi/Islamabad should see the officer concerned in Tourism Division for arranging meeting with the Liaison Officer and assistance on matters like insurance, purchase of rations and allied matters. After completing these formalities leader of the expedition shall ask for a date of formal briefing. For this purpose he shall give a minimum notice of 24 hours excluding Friday and Holidays. The preparatory work would entail a stay of four-five days in Islamabad/Rawalpindi.
12. On return from the mountains the leader of party shall inform the concerned officer in the Tourism Division and obtain a date for debriefing by giving him a minimum notice of 24 hours excluding Friday and holidays.
Note: No party will leave for the mountains without formal briefing or leave the country without formal de-briefing.
13. A party shall include in the expedition as its member at least one L.O to be detailed by the Government of Pakistan.
14. A part shall pay for his food, accommodation and transport for mountains and back from the reporting date of the expedition in Islamabad till the date the party is de-briefed.
15. During the stay of a party at Rawalpindi/Islamabad the L.O will be given daily allowances at the rate of USD 30/- per day. The L.O in a city of Northern Areas (such as Skardu, Gilgit etc) is to be paid USD 15/- per day and accommodation.
16. A L.O shall carry his personal equipment like any other member of the party.
17. A L.O shall be consulted on routes and local customs and if desired on matters such as transport, accommodation and rations. If however, a leader disagrees with L.O he shall give him in writing the reasons for such disagreement.
18. A L.O shall extend maximum assistance to a party in making purchases etc. He shall, however, not handle any cash nor undertake any financial transactions on behalf of a leader/party.
Wages of Porters and Transport Hire Charges:
Royalty Mountain Fees
Height of Peaks
Reduced Fee for 2005 (USD)
Full Team of 7 Members
These rates are subject to periodic revision) Additional fee will be charged if the number of party is for more than one peak the additional number is to pay for the other peak also.
Expeditions are required to deposit full amount of royalty with the nearest Embassy/Consulate/Tourism Division Government of Pakistan at the time of making an application for booking of a peak. The head of account for depositing the royalty is:-
"1391-Fees, Fines and Forfeitures" for accounting of the receipt relating to royalty/trekking fee realized from Mountaineering and Trekking.
49. An Embassy/Consulate shall forward to the Tourism Division a copy of the royalty receipt issued to the Expedition, amount of royalty, number and receipt issued may clearly be mentioned on the covering letter.
50. A party shall indicate in its application from its order of preference for attempting the peak. In case the preference of a party is for the allotment of lower peak and the party is allotted a higher peak out of its preference it shall deposit the balance of the royalty within two weeks of receipt of communication from Tourism Division. In case the balance amount is not deposited within the stipulated period the allotment shall automatically stand cancelled. The amount of royalty collection shall not be refunded to the party whose allotment has been cancelled.
51. In case the first preference of a part is for the allotment of a higher peak but it is allotted a lower peak out of its preference the balance of the royalty shall be refunded to it by the concerned Embassy/Consulate of Pakistan on receipt of a letter of authorization from the Tourism Division.
52. It shall be binding on a party to accept the allotment of a peak if it is one of those mentioned by it in its application form. In case of refusal to accept the allotment, the amount of royalty stand forfeited.
53. If a party indicates its order of preference within a list of peaks submitted by it and all those peaks have already been allotted to other parties. It shall be asked to identify more peaks. In case of its inability to do so the whole of its royalty shall be refused to it.
54. A foreign-cum-Pakistani party and a Pakistani-cum foreign party shall deposit the full amount of royalty the balance of the amount shall be refunded to it accordingly.
A foreign expedition party shall be allowed to get Pakistani member only from Pakistani Mountaineering club registered with Tourism Division. Similarly such a Pakistani club shall be allowed to organize a Pakistani-cum-Foreign expedition if it is registered with the Tourism Division.
Joint Expeditions Parties:
Observance Of Security And Conditions:
For The Publication Of Material
84. A party shall confine its activities to its objectives as declared in the application form.
85. A party shall not indulge in any activity that might offend the religious sentiments and social or moral usages and customs of the local people.
86. A party shall not at any stage operate in more than one area and scale more than one peak.
87. Also a party shall not scale a peak by a route which goes through another peak.
88. A party shall not split into small groups while in the mountains. In case of emergency a L.O has the authority to allow splitting of a party.
89. A party shall not deviate from the specified route expected in an emergency and with the permission of a L.O.
90. Maps etc if applied for and issued to a party shall be returned to the Government of Pakistan through L.O before an expedition's departure from Pakistan. A nominal amount of non-refundable money may also need to be deposited with the Government for use of these maps.
91. Duplicate copies of photographical data collected during mountain climbing etc. shall be handed over to L.O.
92. Should a party be of mountaineering-cum-scientific or exclusively scientific nature, the leader shall submit to the Pakistan authorities concerned for inspection of all the data/specimens/collections etc.
93. Export of all such collection without the prior permission of the Government of Pakistan is prohibited.
94. A leader shall provide a set of all such specimens to the Government of Pakistan.
95. Copies of research papers/documents prepared shall also be supplied, in duplicate, to the Government of Pakistan.
Environmental Care Code:
Expeditions Visiting Pakistan
A. LIAISON OFFICER:
The Terms and Conditions for Liaison officer would remain the same as provided under item IV above except the following:-
KIT & EQUIPMENT: The kit and equipment would be of such a make and quality which can withstand the extreme temperature of –35 C to –40 C.
The Terms and Conditions for porters (both high and low altitude) would remain the same as provided under item VII above except the following:-
The scale of rations would be the same for both low & high altitude porters as indicated in Annexure-H of the mountaineering rules and regulations.
ii. Kit & Equipment:-
The items of kit and equipment would be the same for both low and high altitude porters as are mentioned in Annexure - E. The equipment shall be of the quality that is tested against a temperature of – 35 C to – 40 C.
a. Low altitude porters – doubt the normal summer wages + Rs. 50/- per day in lieu of rations.
b. High altitude porter – double the normal summer wages +Rs. 50/- per day in lieu of rations.
A Low altitude porter shall carry a maximum weight of 20 kgs up to base camp. A high altitude porter shall carry a maximum weight of 12 kg.